188 Rome, Santa Maria Maggiore
Breathtaking huge oblong box with pillars. One of the four papal basilicas in Rome. Altar canopy, thrones and all the gilded decoration and heroic storytelling one could dream of. It is the largest of the zillion churches dedicated to Mary in Rome, and It has exceptional relics, like fragments of baby Jesus’s crib, they say.
It was begun in the fifth century, to celebrate the church’s decision (at Ephesus in Turkey) that Mary should be called “Mother of God” (supporters of “mother of Christ” were roundly defeated), and was gradually enlarged in later centuries. Magnificent fifth century mosaics show episodes from Mary’s life, ending up with her getting crowned in heaven, and parallel stories from the Old Testament (Red Sea division trick etc)
The sixteenth century Sistine chapel (another one) depicts scenes such as Mary visiting her sister, angels appearing to Joseph in a dream etc
Pope Francis is buried in the basilica, and many previous popes can boast magnificent funerary monuments here. Bernini, top Renaissance sculptor who practically invented baroque statues, is here too, in a modest tomb.
Others buried here include Napoleon’s baby sister, Pauline, and Junio Valerio Borghese, one of Mussolini’s top officers.
