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51. Jerusalem. Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Has the tourist guide been drinking?

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  Jerusalem has more religion per square foot than anywhere I have ever been.   The Jewish orthodox neighbourhood outside the old city and inside, the Armenian quarter, the Muslim quarter, the Jewish quarter and so on (the division of the city into quarters was far less strict before the arrival of Israel in 1948, I am told).   For people like me, brought up Catholic, there is plenty to see. Jerusalem has visible history everywhere, as well as plenty of invisible history about the ethnic cleansing which Palestinians have been victims of in a hundred ways over the last 80 years and more. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is considered by many Christians to be built on the site that Jesus was crucified, buried and then rose again. It is no ordinary church, and is made up of a maze of chapels, many of them connected with a particular brand of christianity.   The main groups sharing the church are the  Roman Catholic ,  Greek Orthodox  and  Armenian ...