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150 Churches in Paris and elsewhere

Being a leading world expert in ... something else entirely (really), I started this blog to accompany my walking round Paris visiting churches (occasional guest appearances from synagogues mosques etc), walks initially decided just because I need more exercise. Very little technical vocab, but some good views. Many of the churches are in Paris, but many are churches I went to on my various trips. We are talking relaxed browsing round churches here, not comprehensive analysis.

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3 Paris 8th arrondissement: l'Eglise de la Madeleine

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- janvier 18, 2022

Information in English https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Madeleine,_Paris et en français https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%89glise_de_la_Madeleine

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Images de thèmes de Veronica Olson

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50. Montreal, Basilica of Notre Dame. Coolest Gothic revival pulpit

- février 27, 2023

Montreal, Basilica of Notre Dame. Coolest Gothic revival pulpit The wikipedia article says that the interior of the church is « one of the most dramatic in the world », and dead Gothic. Gets eleven million visitors a year, and last year I was one of them. My favourite ever pulpit. If you’re gonna preach Good News About Eternal Life, you might as well do it perched on some decent furniture. The stained glass windows here don’t bother with Bible stories, but depict scenes from the history of Montreal. The other major highlight is the extra chapel behind the altar through a corridor, which is has a modern bronze altar piece which is totally stunning. It represents humanity’s journey towards God, passing through childhood, adulthood and old age. In this chapel, the Stations of the Cross are well worth a look. Information in French Information in English Information in Armenian

118 Lincoln UK, Lincoln Cathedral : where shall I have my entrails buried ?

- novembre 27, 2024

118 Lincoln UK, Lincoln Cathedral : where shall I have my entrails buried ? It feels like Lincoln cathedral is nowhere near as well-known as is York Minster, and I am told that this is because Lincoln is not on the way to anywhere. In any case the cathedral is spectacular and not to be missed (And thanks to Terry for driving us out there). Apparently John Ruskin reckoned: "that the cathedral of Lincoln is out and out the most precious piece of architecture in the British Isles and roughly speaking worth any two other cathedrals we have." The guided tour was worth every penny. Naturally, the architecture (all started in the 11th century) is what people are most impressed by (especially magical square towers, ceiling vaults and rose windows), but there are a number of other elements I loved. I have seen one whole bunch of sets of Stations of the Cross, but this is the most original (and rather modernist) set I have ever seen. Now, the stories ...

123 Sainte-Mère-Eglise, Normandy : Our Lady of the Holy Parachutes

- janvier 05, 2025

I visit a lot of churches and see a lot of modern art in them, but the stained glass windows of Our Lady with parachutists landing in the background were definitely a first. But perhaps you remember the name of the village Sainte-Mère-Eglise, from the film with John Wayne. Yes, this was the village chosen for the parachute squads to drop in, a few hours before the Normandy landings (because it was in the right place). This is the church whose spire one of the paratroopers got his parachute hooked on. The Germans took him prisoner, and he survived. To this day there is a model of him hanging on to the spire by parachute (You can just see in one of the photos). Apart from the stained glass, there is a fine rood cross (that is to say one high above the altar, in the air), and and admirably chunky lectern. When I was there there was a collection of children’s drawings displayed, on the theme of peace. The church was started in the 12th century, and is actually called Our lady of ...

119 Hastings, UK – St Mary, Star of the Sea : I recognize that lamb

- décembre 11, 2024

119 Hastings, UK – St Mary, Star of the Sea : I recognize that lamb This is the local parish church (built in 1882) I visited with my friend Franco, when I came down to see him in Hastings after we had not seen each other for 30 years (the wonders of Facebook !). Highlight was the lamb pictured here which was made many years ago by Franco’s children. Intricate dark-wood stations of the cross, and a painting of the sea at Hastings with some saint or other I think. According to wikipedia « “Star of the Sea” as a title has been in use since at least the early medieval period. Purportedly arising from a scribal error in a supposed etymology of the name Mary , it came to be seen as allegorical of Mary's role as "guiding star" on the way to Christ. Under this name, the Virgin Mary is believed to intercede as a guide and protector of seafarers in particular. Many coastal churches are named Stella Maris or Star of the Sea. «In ...

72 London - Saint Paul's Cathedral: Cool people commemorated, but bloody Empire heroes too.

- septembre 24, 2023

Saint Paul’s Cathedral London. I seem to be visiting churches a lot faster than I am finding the time to write them up; I have a real backlog. Anyway it was great to visit Saint Paul’s cathedral, one of the four cathedrals in London if I remember correctly (two for the protestants two for the catholics - but I am probably missing some orthodox cathedral). It was Christopher Wren who was the architect, and it was built as the first Anglican cathedral on the site - previously they had just recycled Catholic hand-me-downs. His advisors, and the committees, wanted him to be sure to make it not too Catholic. So, no stained glass, and no statues, monuments etc. However, in later centuries, once they got less scared of us Catholics, the statues and monuments came by the dozens - and indeed the 20th century high altar looks like it was looted from the Vatican itself. Lots of people got monuments, mainly heroes of the bloody British Empire, like Wellington. He has the biggest monume...

115 Perpignan, France, Cathedral of St John the Baptist, delayed for good reason

- octobre 30, 2024

Fourteenth century Gothic cathedral, dedicated to John the Baptist, well-known curtain-raiser act for Jesus Christ and known to Muslims as the prophet Yahya. John had a successful career as preacher and influencer, but eventually was beheaded, apparently for criticizing Royalty. Well after his death, some claimed he had been the long-awaited Messiah, but by far the majority voted for Jesus. Comes along with cloister. The building of the cathedral was delayed for a few decades because of the Black Death ! The church has eighteen chapels, lovely swirly marble floors, and Stations of the Cross which appear to be in beaten metal. There are also some ornate golden altarpieces. Finally, you can see an impressive group of statues of « Jesus being laid in the tomb » - about which I have no further information.

86 Paris, Montmartre, The Basilica of the Sacred Heart. The Gospel is sport!

- décembre 21, 2023

86 Paris, Montmartre, The Basilica of the Sacred Heart This tremendously famous church, which towers over Montmartre in Paris, is more directly political than most. It is often said to have been built as revenge against the Paris Commune, an insurrection during which the workers controlled Paris for a couple of months and showed the wonderful possibilities of workers’ power before being massacred by the authorities. This is not 100% true, in that the plans to build this church were decided before the Paris Commune. Nevertheless, the right wingers of the time certainly presented the church, and the worship of the sacrament in it as penance for the terrible sin of workers’ insurrection. As a result the church is cordially detested by many left wing activists in France (even more than the significant minority of left activists here who cordially detest any religious building). Shortly after the building of the church, it was the site of the National Vow, which again was a very co...

150 Paris 11th arrondissement : Saint Ambroise – dinky stations of the cross

- juillet 05, 2025

Built in honour of Saint Ambrose of Milan, fourth century bishop and one of the four great Latin church fathers, who put innovative chanting into churches, and who wrote some hymns which are still regularly used today. The church was consecrated in 1910 (a previous church on the site had been opened in 1818). Its impressive set of towers is now easier to appreciate since they opened the garden opposite. The entrance porch includes allegorical figures representing theology and eloquence. The church contains dinky stations of the cross, mosaics of a series of saints, and a fine altar canopy, The noticeboard explains how you can learn sewing on Thursday nights.

John Mullen

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