Articles

128 Bastia, Corsica, Saint Mary’s pro-cathedral, like something out of a musical

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  I always thought that a pro-cathedral was standing in for a cathedral, but this one is more of an ex-cathedral, a cathedral that is no more. It has not been a cathedral since the whole of Corsica was united as one diocese in 1802, and Ajaccio won out as cathedral city. Baroque church, much of it seventeenth century, with lovely volumes, and fine paintings, including good old St Martin cutting his cloak in half to give half to a poor man. There is also a sixteenth century wooden altarpiece, and a silver statue of the Assumption. Seven bishops died while officiating in Bastia, and their seven hats are hung up in the church, which sounds like something out of a musical, but isn’t. There is a marble plaque on the floor giving thanks for the events of 1866, when, we are told, the town was saved from a cholera epidemic.

127 Paris, 10th arrondissement, St Joseph the Artisan.

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Paris, 10th arrondissement St Joseph the Artisan This is a mid nineteenth-century chapel which became a parish church in 1958. Tiny and quite exquisite Stations of the Cross, and modern stained glass done by a priest-artist. From 1866 to 1925 it was the church for Germans in Paris. Somewhat damaged by artillery fire during the Paris Commune of 1871, and bombed during the First World War, but intact. Saint André Bauer frequented this church before going off to China as a missionary, and being killed there in the Boxer rebellion. Seven paintings tell the story of the life of Saint Joseph, some of the scenes being based on episodes not officially recognized by the Catholic Church, in particular the death of Joseph in the presence of both Mary and Jesus.